“Wake up! You’ll miss the first line of defense.” A friend, fellow traveller and aficionado of Rajput architecture rudely awoke me when we entered the gates of the pink city. There was still a long way to Kuchaman but my friend was already carrying on a steady chatter about historical anecdotes, enthusiastically pointing out sites and I didn’t have the heart to go back to sleep. The 145-km drive from Jaipur to the Nagaur district covers strategic sites such as the white fields of marble in Makrana and Kishengarh — famed for it miniature paintings. We plodded along the dusty, cacti-lined road, speckled with chattris occasionally spotting a decrepit fort on a hill when around one of the many bends the Kuchaman fort came into view, brooding over the city.Kuchaman fort was a popular trade route and controlled the salt-trade as far back as 1200 years. To tap this vital source, the Gujjar Pratihara dynasty had constructed part of the Kuchaman fort during 700 AD. After a series of succession of rulers and wars, the Rathores ruled the city ever since till the independence of India and the merger of the erstwhile Princely States. I, however, preferred the local version of how the fort came into being which I heard on a balmy evening in a song sung by folk singers entertaining the guests. The legend goes that on one of the many marches through the golden sands of the Thar, a Rathore thakur and his caravan came to rest in the environs of Kuchaman. Upon a rock cliff he saw a light, assuming it to be the camp of bandits he made his way to it and instead found a sage deep in meditation. When the sage opened his eyes, he found the mighty thakur prostrating in front of him. Impressed by his devotion, the sage said that he would grant him anything to which the thakur replied that he wanted his garh (fort) built atop that very cliff. The sage answered his wish and prophesised that his rule would continue for generations to come. This tale might not convince historians but the sage’s promise rings true till today, because the songs being sung that evening were mostly adoration and praises for the Rathore family, a validation of their eminent presence.
The fort is reached through a labyrinth of narrow lanes, busy with market folk, camels, children,
women in a riot of bright colors, whiffs of affim drifting out from crumbling yet graceful buildings – a swirl of colors, smells and sounds. It is perched eyerie-like, 1000 feet above ground on a rock cliff. As I craned my neck to look into the blinding sun at the sheer enormity of the structure, it didn’t feel Rajput at all but more like a Scottish castle. Towering parapets, numerous balconies, ten gates, various defenses and its sheer vantage of height have made it one of the most formidable and impregnable bastions through time. The meandering climb up to the fort is tricky as the road is steep, narrow and the sharp angular bends do not allow vehicles to make turns. This was a road meant only for elephants to climb and even today, no other vehicle can make it to the top except the local expert drivers in their four-wheel-drive jeeps. They drive up to the first turn, back it up to the next bend where they drive straight to the next turn, back it up again to the next bend and this continues till the top. One actually enters the mighty fort, clutching (very firmly) on to their hats and the jeep, in reverse!At the entrance sits the Meena Bazaar — once the exclusive market for the ladies of the court who weren’t allowed to venture into the city — a site for folk artists and crafts people to showcase their wares. Know as Kumawats, they are descendents of masons and artists who worked and served during the days of the kings and whose trade/profession has been brought down through generations. At a puppet show held in the evening, I discovered that the puppeteer’s ancestors were the official puppeteers of the royal court and that he too was initiating his young son into the art to keep the tradition alive. To hold the wavering attention of a twentieth century audience, he also threw in a skit featuring Michael Jackson!
Salt-seasoned winds from the Sambar Lake blow a little stronger at the top and cut out all the
noise and trappings of the city below. The city lays spread like a map out on a table and one can trace the skeleton of ancient walls of defense running through it. Unlike most other heritage/boutique hotels, there is nothing ritzy or artificial about the fort and it has been maintained and restored in its natural element. A maze of corridors reveal quiet alcoves strewn with cannon balls and locked doors which whisper tales of great mystery. Another factor which ensured the safety of the inhabitants of the fort was its secret passageways, underground hideouts and getaway routes. I was told, in a hushed voice, by a gardener that there existed a secret path all the way to Pushkar, an astounding 100 kms away! It took me till evening, half a bottle of wine and many wrong turns to figure my way around.
The masculine and military façade of the fort can be deceiving as most of the walls inside are artfully covered with a plethora of murals and miniature paintings with a running theme of floral, geometrical motifs and Hindu mythology. The Suneri Burj (Golden Palace) — an old bed chamber is a delight because the walls are an extravaganza of gilded work. The fort houses a museum of weapons and amour. The Sheesh Mahal (Glass Palace), the walls of which are embedded with semi precious stones, mirrors, with gloss and gold inlay work, when lit up at night brings to life the romance and decadence of the golden period of the Rajputs. The courtyard of the durbar is a life-size hedonistic giant chessboard, a pleasure once enjoyed only by the highest rung of the nobility. We were put up at the Hawa Mahal, so called because of the gusts of winds that enter it. It is a super private room as it lies on the quieter side of the fort and has a stunning view. Tucked away in the corner is a 400-year-old underground swimming pool with lofty arches and echoing galleries which were a part of the Jal Mahal built especially for the queens and princesses. Kuchaman has a smart water management system with several underground and overhead tanks which exist till date. Relatively undiscovered, it is soon gaining popularity as an offbeat and exotic destination. With films like Drona being shot here, it is likely to become one of the most sought after holiday retreats.As the sun sizzles behind the Aravalli range, the raccoons disappear as quickly as they appeared, temple bells begin to ring, the winds tease the golden sand dunes to another place, peacocks shake their kaleidoscopic feathers in a last dance to the Kumawats’ soulful song and Kuchaman fort stands sturdy, a jewel in the midst of a million glittering diamond lights of the city.
"Loved it. Excellent getaway, courtesy sahibsalaam."
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